Aviaries measuring at least 4 metres long should preferably be used to house these strong fliers. However, they can be housed in smaller suspended flights
for breeding purposes as long as they are given access to larger communal flights for the remainder of the year.
Partitions between flights should be double wired to prevent squabbling birds nipping each other’s toes resulting in missing toes/nails and blood loss. Metal-framed aviaries are best as wooden frames will be easily chewed, and 16-gauge wire should be used, as anything smaller will be easily destroyed resulting in escapees. 12mm x 12mm mesh is preferable as this will keep out vermin such as rats and weasels and all but the smallest mice.
Aviary or flight roofs should be at least partially covered and preferably totally covered with corrugated sheeting or similar material to prevent attacks from cats and birds of prey and to protect the occupants from coming into contact with disease carrying wild bird droppings and the effects of the elements.
During the winter months the sides of the aviary/flight should also be covered to prevent the chilling effect of the wind, as these parakeets are susceptible to frost bitten toes.
If these birds are to be kept as a pet indoors, offer them the largest cage possible and allow them freedom for flight and exploring for at least two to three hours a day. Ensure the cage is placed away from the kitchen, as there is a risk to the bird from cooking fumes.
When the bird is out of the cage supervise it at all times, electrical wires must be out of reach, windows and doors closed and curtains drawn to prevent the bird flying into glass panes, and any deep vessels containing liquid should be emptied.
Cages and aviaries should be fitted with natural fruit tree branches to provide exercise for the birds’ feet and toes and toys and swings should also be provided to stimulate your birds and prevent boredom.
Aviary block and bird room